Monday, August 9, 2010

Mejor la basura que la cintura

"Better in the trash than on the waist!" I learned this spanish idiom last night over a pizza dinner too good to be wasted in the trash :)

Marie and Carmen treated Lauren, Reghan and I to a delectable last supper of sorts at a Spanish owned pizzeria with an authentic Italian twist. Our primer plato was an ensalada with pistacios, goatcheese and a honey-balsamic dressing ...mmmm. For our second dish we shared two thin and crispy pizzas: Prosciutto y Melanzada. Translated: one with sweet ham (I'm sure you're all familiar with Italian Prosciutto, but the Spanish version is slightly different and described as "jamon dulce") and the other with caramalized eggplant and a sweet honey and balsamic vinaigrette (my favorite!). When the last two slices were left hopelessly waiting for one of five of us chicas to devour them, I volunteered my cintura to save room for the basura. This pizza was way too good to be put to waste!

Instead of staying at the restaurant for dessert like we traditionally do here in Alicante, Carmen decided it would be nicer to take a walk down the Explanada - a main street running adjacent to the marina outlined with artisan tents, gelaterias and souvenir vendors and bursting with locals and tourists alike enjoying the seaside atmosphere. At the very end of the Explanada is an outdoor gelateria at which Marie treated us. I got a blanco y negro - a sweet cream gelato submerged in coffee ... I wish I discovered this heavenly treat earlier in my trip, I was practically licking the glass at the end. Then again, it's probably better for my cintura that I only tasted it on my last night in Alicante....

Earlier in the evening I experienced my first bull fight! Plaza de Toros is located centrally in Alicante and the bull fights are a HUGE part of the culture here in Valenciano. Walking into the stadium reminded me of walking into a baseball stadium at home; fans held signs for their favorite matador, vendors were selling sodas and sunflower seeds, and the excitement for the commencement of the games was beaming from every corner! It's amazing to me how much of a cultural experience attending a bull fight is. Similarly to watching an American athletic event, the fans are aware of the strategies and techniques used during their fight and are very vocal about their opinions. On the contrary, it holds more tradition and culture than does a regular sporting event. The matadors double as athletes and performers - I loved the way they entertained the crowd and frequently paused to smile and pose at the adoring fans. The fight commenced with an introduction of the horses (yes this bull fight was conducted on horseback) and the matadors. Music and cheers accompanied the debut of the matadors and their well trained horses. The horses were magnificent. They were so well trained that they actually looked like they were dancing as they trotted. During the "Corrida de Rejones" (bullflight with horses) I couldn't help but feel like I was watching something completely regal. Now that I've seen the Rejones spectacle, I think I'll attend a traditional corrida de toros next time I'm in Spain - I'd love to see the different tactics used by the matadors on foot verses on horseback. Carmen told us she is grateful we chose to watch the Corrida de Rejones because the day before, at the traditional fight, one of the matadors got severely gored. I'm glad too. I could just barely hold it together watching the first bull get stabbed; I doubt my fascination in bullfighting would continue after watching a near human fatality. Bright red bull blood was horrific in itself, seeing that of a human might be overly traumatic for an American's first time bullfight.

Each matador had the ring to themselves on two different occassions, slaying two bulls each. That's six bulls in total (!!!) The biggest bull was over half a ton!! The gore and death of the bull was almost too much to handle, but I kept reminding myself to step out of my American mindset and put myself into the shoes of the Spaniards who regard this tradition as honorary and beautiful. After an apparently immaculate performance the crowd gave a twenty minute standing ovation, the pride these people have in the bullfighters is overwhelming I think I'll spare the gory details on this blog post, for those of you dying to know the dirty details I'll be happy to share in person! (I have tons of pictures.) I'm not sure that I completely agree with the bull fights, the people of Barcelona definitely do not - during my stay the government of Catalunya banned bullfighting in the region. When I first heard that news I thought "how very civilized." But now, I am more than happy I was able to see one in Alicante and I am definitely intrigued to learn more about the tradition and strategies behind this cultural event.

What a great way to spend my last Sunday night in Alicante. The bull fight was the perfect conclusion to my six week cultural immersion. And sure, the food at dinner was amazing but, as usual, the time spent with Carmen and Marie was priceless. Today, Laur and I only have a half day in Alicante before we train it to Madrid to catch our flight out of Spain (que lastima!!!) Carmen is making us a mid-day meal and Laura (our infamous Espadrille friend) will be joining us to say our goodbyes.

I imagine it will be very difficult to say goodbye to this beautiful place and the beautiful people I've met here, but I am looking forward to reuniting with the people I've missed oh so much back at home. I think today I need to learn the Spanish term for bittersweet .

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